Friday, July 3, 2009

Barcode: Bokx 109

Most modern steakhouses exude a certain muscular artfulness in their design. Dark woods, engulfing booths, and aggressive ornamentation. BOKX 109 American Prime is no exception. Here the large bar bisects the room, with an open kitchen on one side and a lounge area on the other. But the real attraction is the adjacent pool deck.

Every few minutes as we sat at the bar, we’d glance longingly outside, hoping the sun might come out for once and give us a chance to enjoy a cocktail on one of the plump couches, pod chairs or private cabanas along the patio. Everyone at the surprisingly packed bar on a drizzly Wednesday night likely felt the same way.

The pool has a schedule of different entertainment options, hours of operation and cover charges depending on the day of the week, although Relakx Sundays (there’s a masseuse on hand) seems like the one to try. Indeed, a massage by the pool and a spicy Bloody Mary may be the ideal recipe for relaxing after a big night out.

“This one is great in case of a hangover,’’ says bartender Adam Dennis, presenting the Roasted Gazpacho (Ultimat vodka infused with red jalapenos, fresh basil, salt and pepper, Tabasco, $12). “It wakes the stomach up and brings the appetite back.’’ Spicy hot and chilled, with a large slice of red jalapeno and a basil leaf garnish, this one was a study in contrasts.

The Ginger Sidecar (Pierre Ferrand Cognac, Mathilde Pear Liqueur, simple syrup reduced with fresh ginger, $14, below right) hit the opposite end of the taste spectrum.

“Being that we have a young-executive-to-slightly-older crowd we like to stay with the classics,’’ Dennis said. “Sidecars, Sazeracs, Manhattans. But we try to work in something new to something that they’re used to. This one is a little on the airy side. Slightly sweet, but great on a hot day out at the pool.’’ We wouldn’t have minded a stronger ginger presence, but it was citrusy and had a nice texture, very drinkable.

Another variation on an old standard is the New Orleans Old Fashioned (Michter’s Rye, Peychaud’s Bitters, muddled fruit, sugar, $12). “Most of our drinks are more accommodating - frilly for lack of a better word,’’ says Dennis. “This is more old school spirits.’’ It’s got a striking color, a fruity, fresh nose, and an appealing fruit sugar. But the rye stands out. This is an instance where fruit complements the spirit rather than competing with it.

For something a little more adulterated, the Graceful Lady (Passion Fruit Skyy Vodka, rosemary reduced simple syrup, Mathilde Pear Liqueur, cranberry juice, $12, below left) is a good bet. “This is a good competition for a Cosmo,’’ Dennis said. Garnished with a sprig of rosemary, it’s more interesting than a cosmo.

“I don’t like to pigeonhole, but if someone says they don’t like the taste of alcohol, this is the one for them.’’ We might not order this ourselves, but in terms of starter cocktails, you could do a lot worse. From the looks of the crowd here - be it the gathering of 30-plus young mothers in the corner getting a night out, or the stockbrokers and media types in another - it seems people agree.

“We’re slammed all the time,’’ says Dennis. There’s a reason for that.

BOKX 109 at the Hotel Indigo, 399 Grove St., Newton. 617-454-3399. www.bokx109.com

Boston Globe

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