Barcode: KO Prime

Peaceful spirits

Street-level bars are fine, particularly the kind with big open windows where you can watch the world go by over a pint. But there's something about bars a level removed, be it in a basement or a second story, that can more readily pull you out of the day to day and into your own private world.

The bar and lounge at KO Prime, a chic downtown steakhouse, is far from a clandestine, underground affair, but walking up the stairs, you might find that essential transportive effect. With heavy curtains obscuring the waning early evening light over the historic Granary Burying Ground, and the dim flicker of candlelight dancing off the bottles stacked behind the bar, you might also lose track of the time of day. Cow-skin patterned couches and kitschy antler chandeliers wink at the restaurant's theme, but for the most part this is the type of dim lounge atmosphere you could lose yourself in, and maybe lose an entire evening.

We set to work doing just that by ordering the Grapes of Wrath (Grey Goose La Poire Vodka, Sauvignon Blanc, muddled cucumber and pineapple, cucumber garnish, $14; below right). Sauvignon Blanc is usually our white wine of choice, so the effects of the mixture here were well suited to our taste. The combination boosted the profile of big, dry fruit, citrus, and grass. In keeping with the bovine theme, it put us in the mindset of grazing in a peaceful pasture.

Speaking of nature, the Blackberry Apple Julep (Makers Mark, muddled blackberries, apple, and mint, $14; below front) sent us off into a contemplative pastoral setting. A gorgeous dark purple, its strong nose hits you before you take a sip. Although a touch less syrup in the muddling process might give the fresh fruit more room to breathe.

The popular Shiso Smash (Hanger One Kaffir Lime Vodka, red shiso, St. Germaine, lime juice, and sparkling rosé, $14) was a touch too sweet as well, but interesting all the same. We usually relish the aroma and Thai-cooking flavor touches of kaffir lime, and were intrigued by the muddled shiso leafs, a complex herb related to basil and mint that is often used in Japanese cooking. But here the St. Germain dominated. Maybe we've finally had our fill of this ubiquitous liqueur.

OK, we take that back because here it is again in the delightful, refreshing Spring Fizz (Rosé Cava, St. Germaine, Fee Bros. orange bitters, soda, torched orange peel, $9; below back). The soda gives the cocktail a fuller carbonated body, and the St. Germain falls to the back, just hinting at its elderflower sweetness. The rosé is a find on its own, with tons of dry berry fruit. Hit with the Fee Bros. and the orange peel it takes on a bitter, sun-kissed glow. Just enough sun to remind you about the world going on outside.

KO Prime, 90 Tremont St., Boston. 617-772-0202. www.koprimeboston.com.