Much like the construction of a memorable cocktail, the interior design of a bar is only as good as the raw materials you have to work with. At Bina Osteria, the newish Italian restaurant in Downtown Crossing, they've done their best in that regard, transforming a peculiarly shaped space into a high concept design that almost resembles an art gallery with its stark white walls and free flowing geometry. The long, thin room is broken up awkwardly by thick support columns, but they've used that would-be hindrance to good effect, bracketing smaller spaces within the whole. We set up shop in relatively secluded seats at the u-shaped terrazzo bar. When it comes to the cocktails, the Bina folks hew to a unique European aesthetic.
"We get a lot of questions on the cocktail list because it's not the type of stuff people are used to," said bartender Heather Brulte. "But we get people to try new things."
One thing we'd never tried was Becherovka, a Czech herbal bitters with strong cinnamon and anise flavors. It formed the base of the Kost (Becherovka, lemon, Tabasco, simple syrup, $10; below right). The cinnamon and Tabasco cut with citrus is an eye opening flavor combination, and it hits you with its varied spice at both its start and finish.
The beer list veers outside the norm as well, with on-tap offerings like the Belgian Delirium Tremens ($10) and Kasteel Donker ($11).
More familiar ingredients can be found in the Caprese, (pepper-infused vodka, tomato water, balsamic, basil, $10, but they're put to creative use. It's a peppery salad in a glass that comes with a learning curve. "I can't finish that drink," said our drinking companion, "but I respect it."
Although its base spirit is rye, the Paddy Wagon (Rittenhouse rye, Mandarine Napoleon, clove, lemon, simple syrup, $10) is a lot more user friendly. The Mandarine comes in where most bars would use a liqueur like triple sec, and it provides a more natural orange flavor. "It makes our cosmos better, too," said Brulte.
Amaro is another of their favored bases, as in Thé Freddo (Nonino Amaro, Aperol, ginger, $10). An homage to the infamous late night beverage in nearby Chinatown, it means "cold tea." This one's almond heavy and bittersweet. Like most of the others on the list, it's best appreciated slowly.
Don't miss the Grappa Fizz (Acqua di Cedro, egg white, lemon, $11). Expertly shaken to a beautiful foam, it's like a lemon ice with a touch of vanilla and nut. "This can be made so wrong," said the bartender. Not this time.
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