Faneuil Hall is known for a lot of things: street performers, tourists, the smell of fish wafting over from Haymarket, and whatever it was some historical dudes did back in the day. But even more than that, it's known for its Irish pubs. Now, we can't in good conscience send you down there on a crowded weekend, but during off-peak hours, Durty Nelly's is worth a visit.While a lot of the pubs in the neighborhood are more cattle staging areas littered with TVs and Irish kitsch, there's a sense of the authentic (or at least what passes for it) at this small pub with no food and a long wooden bar. The low ceilings, musty books, and tea-cup and biscuit-tin décor enhance the sort of poetic pint-glass musings an Irish pub is supposed to engender - just be prepared to strike up a conversation with the person you're literally rubbing elbows with. Over the course of a Smithwick's ($4) we heard at least four languages/English dialects and saw at least five stages of inebriation.
Durty Nelly's, 108 Blackstone St., Boston. 617-367-2114. somersirishpubs.com
Just around the cobblestone corner is the popular Green Dragon, established in 1654. Like Nelly's, it's owned by the Somers Pubs group, but we found it a lot less inviting. The antique mirrors and ornate curtains expressed a charm of sorts, but the collection of loosened-tie after-work types, children, fanny packers, popped-collar college bros, and hungry men wolfing down shepherd's pie somehow made us homesick even amid the American Patriot vibe. The Irish pub here is as American as take-out Chinese food.
In a way, the bar seemed a metaphor for Boston itself: filthy with history, but not entirely sure how to carry all that weight into the future. On the way out, the theme from "Cheers" of all things came on. Outside, a camera-toting dad hustled his son in front of a Revolutionary War soldier statue. "Let's take your picture with this guy," he said.
"Why?" asked the boy.
Green Dragon Tavern, 11 Marshall St., Boston. 617-367-0055. somersirishpubs.com
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