Friday, July 3, 2009

Barcode: Bokx 109

Most modern steakhouses exude a certain muscular artfulness in their design. Dark woods, engulfing booths, and aggressive ornamentation. BOKX 109 American Prime is no exception. Here the large bar bisects the room, with an open kitchen on one side and a lounge area on the other. But the real attraction is the adjacent pool deck.

Every few minutes as we sat at the bar, we’d glance longingly outside, hoping the sun might come out for once and give us a chance to enjoy a cocktail on one of the plump couches, pod chairs or private cabanas along the patio. Everyone at the surprisingly packed bar on a drizzly Wednesday night likely felt the same way.

The pool has a schedule of different entertainment options, hours of operation and cover charges depending on the day of the week, although Relakx Sundays (there’s a masseuse on hand) seems like the one to try. Indeed, a massage by the pool and a spicy Bloody Mary may be the ideal recipe for relaxing after a big night out.

“This one is great in case of a hangover,’’ says bartender Adam Dennis, presenting the Roasted Gazpacho (Ultimat vodka infused with red jalapenos, fresh basil, salt and pepper, Tabasco, $12). “It wakes the stomach up and brings the appetite back.’’ Spicy hot and chilled, with a large slice of red jalapeno and a basil leaf garnish, this one was a study in contrasts.

The Ginger Sidecar (Pierre Ferrand Cognac, Mathilde Pear Liqueur, simple syrup reduced with fresh ginger, $14, below right) hit the opposite end of the taste spectrum.

“Being that we have a young-executive-to-slightly-older crowd we like to stay with the classics,’’ Dennis said. “Sidecars, Sazeracs, Manhattans. But we try to work in something new to something that they’re used to. This one is a little on the airy side. Slightly sweet, but great on a hot day out at the pool.’’ We wouldn’t have minded a stronger ginger presence, but it was citrusy and had a nice texture, very drinkable.

Another variation on an old standard is the New Orleans Old Fashioned (Michter’s Rye, Peychaud’s Bitters, muddled fruit, sugar, $12). “Most of our drinks are more accommodating - frilly for lack of a better word,’’ says Dennis. “This is more old school spirits.’’ It’s got a striking color, a fruity, fresh nose, and an appealing fruit sugar. But the rye stands out. This is an instance where fruit complements the spirit rather than competing with it.

For something a little more adulterated, the Graceful Lady (Passion Fruit Skyy Vodka, rosemary reduced simple syrup, Mathilde Pear Liqueur, cranberry juice, $12, below left) is a good bet. “This is a good competition for a Cosmo,’’ Dennis said. Garnished with a sprig of rosemary, it’s more interesting than a cosmo.

“I don’t like to pigeonhole, but if someone says they don’t like the taste of alcohol, this is the one for them.’’ We might not order this ourselves, but in terms of starter cocktails, you could do a lot worse. From the looks of the crowd here - be it the gathering of 30-plus young mothers in the corner getting a night out, or the stockbrokers and media types in another - it seems people agree.

“We’re slammed all the time,’’ says Dennis. There’s a reason for that.

BOKX 109 at the Hotel Indigo, 399 Grove St., Newton. 617-454-3399. www.bokx109.com

Boston Globe

Friday, June 26, 2009

Taking Back Sunday

Sunday are happy to be ‘New Again’

When a band goes through as many high profile member changes as the beloved New York emo outfit Taking Back Sunday has, it makes sense to title your latest record “New Again.”

But like most of vocalist Adam Lazzara’s characteristically tongue on sleeve/ heart in cheek lyrics, there’s also a second meaning. Yes, there may be a new lineup, but the record also represents something of a rebirth — musically and interpersonally — says latest addition guitarist Matt Fazzi.
“I think the whole vibe is different all the way around,” the longtime friend of the band says.

Longtime fans will be happy to hear the band’s signature shouted melodicism and biting sarcastic heartbreak in tact. But there’s a sense of propulsion that charges the record, particularly on songs like “Lonely, Lonely” and the title track. Fazzi’s guitar playing is a departure too.

“Musically, my guitar approach is ... left of center for this style that we play,” he says. “A lot of that has to do with my liking to play a lot of jazz style chords. So instead of being this wall of sound power chords massive thing, my guitar playing is making a little more space so we can have more subtlety in the guitar and bass relationship. ... Taking away the wall of guitar and making something a little bit smarter out of it.”

In other words, making something familiar new. Again.

Barcode: Tea Cocktails

Being what you might technically call a dude, we never embraced the idea of having afternoon tea anywhere - never mind someplace as formal as Swan’s Cafe tearoom at the Park Plaza Hotel - as a way to pass a couple of hours.

But had we known it serves a selection of tea-based cocktails, we might have stopped by a little sooner. Turns out afternoon tea is just another way of saying happy hour with nice tablecloths.

“Tea has a tremendous culinary potential,’’ says tea sommelier Cynthia Gold. And cocktail potential, too. “That’s my agenda. To get the word out there.’’

A good place to start would be her Tea 101 class. The next installment, to be held tomorrow, will focus on summer iced tea blends and iced tea sangrias.

The two tea sangrias we tried are selling around the corner at the hotel’s Bonfire restaurant at the moment, but will soon migrate over to Swan’s Cafe or its adjacent bar and lounge. The Darjeeling and Pear (Riesling, Darjeeling tea, pears, $9) was light and refreshing. Darjeeling teas, from Northern India, are known for their astringency and natural floral and fruit tones.

“The Darjeeling had subtle pear under notes I wanted to bring out here,’’ says Gold.

Similar, but more complex and aromatic, was the Jasmine Tea Sangria (Yin Hao jasmine tea, Riesling, brandied fruits, $9). Here the fruits develop in brandy for a day before they’re added to the wine and tea infusion, where it then sits for another day, allowing the flavors to develop. (Want to try this at home? Don’t let them sit for too long, because the tea and fruits will begin to break down.)

Among the rotating selection of tea-infused white ports, we tried one made with black tea, lavender, and rose petals. The aromas on this one were remarkable, all floral and dark sweetness. The port itself is cloyingly sweet, but the tea adds layers.

“I’m not looking for an alcoholic tea, I’m looking to use tea to change the aromatics, flavor profile, and texture of the drink,’’ says Gold. The Yin and Tonic (gin infused with Ti Kuan Yin tea, $9) was a good example of this theory in practice. Here the tea rounds out the body and flavor of the gin, adding a touch of earthiness and complementing the juniper berries and spices. The Ti Kuan Yin is known for its natural smokiness and spice with a finish of stone fruit. This makes it ideal for pairing with spicy foods, so take notice if you’re looking for a tea cocktail to serve at your summer barbecue.

Elsewhere, the Keemun Cream (Keemun Hao Ya A tea slowly infused into vodka with a touch of cracked pepper, Baileys, $8.50) uses tea to balance the sugar you expect from a creamy Baileys cocktail. The Green Tea Martini (below left; vodka slowly infused with Chinese Dragon Well tea, dried peaches, quince, mallow blossoms, and vanilla bean, garnished with dried cranberries, $11) is pretty much entirely alcohol.

“Sometimes people hear ‘Green Tea Martini’ and they envision iced tea with a little alcohol in it,’’ says Gold. “That’s not what this is.’’ Not by a long shot. “I look at cocktails as life in balance,’’ she says. “You have the alcohol to relax you, the caffeine to energize you, and a healthy dose of antioxidants to round it out. What could be better?’’ This was exactly the kick we needed after a long afternoon tea to get us up and out into the city. Sometimes this relaxing business can be a lot of work.

Swan’s Cafe, The Boston Park Plaza Hotel, 50 Park Plaza, Boston. 617-654-1906. 617-426-2000. www.bostonparkplaza.com

Boston Globe

Monday, June 22, 2009

Slacker nation at the office

Dealing with co-workers who don’t pull their weight

There are dozens of different types of annoying co-workers. People who don’t pull their weight around the office — especially when you are busting your butt — can be particularly problematic, says Lynne Eisaguirre, author of numerous career books including “Stop Pissing Me Off!: What to Do When the People You Work with Drive You Crazy” (Adams, $13).

So what’s the best way to deal with these lazy bums? Try focusing on specifics. “Chunk it down,” as she says, since a total personality transplant is not an option. “You have to start with small changes of behavior ... Saying ‘you’re a slacker,’ ‘you’re not pulling your weight,’ those kind of broad things, those just make people defensive, and they’re not going to get you anywhere.” If you want someone to turn their report in on time, for example, because their delay is causing you to fall behind, come at them from that specific angle.

The first step is giving someone understanding and appreciation. Try saying “I understand that you have a lot on your desk.” Coming from this position can help avoid a more direct confrontation that may be perceived as hostile. The second step is explaining your specific request. Say “I need your report by the 15th of the month or else mine will be late.” Thirdly, follow up with more appreciation.

If that doesn’t work, you have to escalate it, adding some sort of specific consequences. That doesn’t mean going directly to the boss, however. Save that as a last resort. Bosses often prefer employees to work out their differences on their own, anyway.

Take a lesson from one of her favorite books, “Kicked, Bitten, and Scratched: Life and Lessons at the World’s Premier School for Exotic Animal Trainers” (Penguin, $15).

“You don’t train a seal to bounce a ball on his head by nagging him, or yelling at him or accusing him of being a slacker,” Eisaguirre explains. “You use small behavioral changes and rewards to get him to do it.”

Sound advice, especially if your co-workers are already acting like animals, anyway.

New York Metro

Saturday, June 20, 2009

Luke O'Neil, of The Good North: "Six Underrated Songs I Wish The Good North Had Written"

Although this record came out long after The Good North had broken up, turns out I'd been trying to rip them off my entire career. Exactly the type of hard-charging, soaring anthem my own songs sound like in my head...only none of them are nearly as good as this. One of my favorite vocalists of the past five years. Only big in Canada, sadly.

2. Kent, "If You Were Here"
This track from what I consider the greatest Swedish rock band ever – no small feat – came out way back in 1998, and it still sounds like it was written tomorrow. It's the essence of longing distilled into a the ideal pop-rock format. This record got lost in the shuffle in the post-Bends-era imitators, but it should have been a huge breakthrough here. For a dude who speaks English as a second language, he writes better lyrics than most American bands. Huge in Sweden. Here, not so much.

3. Aerial Love Feed, "Doomsville"
TGN used to play with these guys in NYC all the time back in the day, and they had a big influence on us. We named our first album after one of their songs. Way, way ahead of their time, they were doing the shoegaze revival thing in the late '90s, then added in a thumping house electronic element just before dance music blew up again. Big in NYC, but never got the attention they deserved everywhere else.

4. The Sheila Divine, "Like a Criminal"
Definitely no surprise about this one for anyone who's ever heard TGN or talked to me for five seconds. And while they weren't underrated in Boston, they probably should have been a huge smash across the country. It still bothers me to this day. I've been trying to write songs like this one for years now.

5. Brand New, "The Quiet Things That No One Ever Knows"
This one was sort of a hit, but I highly doubt you gave a shit about it, so we're gonna call it underrated anyway. Best lyricist in the past decade or so. Just a huge anthemic, powerful song, full of sweet harmonies, hard-edged screaming, poignant lyrics, and blazing guitars. The type of song that can pick you up and carry you away.

6. Further Seems Forever, "The Moon Is Down"
Yeah, yeah, emo is gay or whatever. Good call. This seminal, but mostly overlooked record is the picture of a band hitting it so hard in all departments. Not least of which is Carrabba's amazing, yearning vocal here. Sort of a blueprint for most of the shitty bands that came out in the meantime, but still powerful and moving after all this time. Gives hope to dudes who can't technically sing well, but can force home the drama all the same.

The Good North play their reunion show at the Middle East downstairs on Saturday, June 27.


Boston Phoenix

Friday, June 19, 2009

Add herbs and shake

Everyone talks about using fresh ingredients, but it’s not every bar where you can walk out back to a greenhouse and watch the bartender pick the herbs he’s going to use in your cocktail.

“The farm-to-table thing is trendy right now,’’ David Greekwood of Summer Winter in Burlington told us. It’s something Summer Winter chef-owners Clark Frasier and Mark Gaier have been doing for years at their celebrated Arrows Restaurant in Ogunquit, Maine. The picture-perfect greenhouse situated outside Summer Winter’s dining room is smaller than Arrows’s fields, but it gets the job done.

“You’d be amazed at the amount of greens and produce we’re able to take out of here,’’ Greekwood said, offering up basil, rosemary, lavendar, and multiple types of mint (pineapple, apple, pineapple sage). “Because we have this great resource for the dinner menu, I thought about herbal cocktails. What can I do to include fresh ingredients in the drink menu?’’

In the morning he comes out to see what they have a lot of - maybe some shiso, or kaffir lime - and plans drinks from there. “It forces you to keep your menu current and seasonal,’’ he said.

In that spirit, the Greenhouse Caipiroska (Hangar One Mandarin vodka infused with herbs and crushed ice, $12) is something of a “surprise’’ herb cocktail. The bartender picks herbs for it at random, Greekwood explained, while muddling some lavender flower, shiso, and pineapple sage with fresh lemon and syrup.

“You want to give this a good muddle, but don’t want to bruise the rind to the point that it’s bitter,’’ he said. The result, a vodka caipirinha, is a cavalcade of herbaceous flavors. And it’s pretty much straight alcohol. “I should call it that Caipiroska Smash,’’ he joked. Too many of these, and that’s what you’ll be.

For now, the fruit in the Blackberry Nightshade (below right; Skyy Vodka, Cointreau, blackberries, $12) comes from a local farm, but the bartender already has his eye on a little plot out back where he could grow berries soon. One look at the thick, dark color from the hard-shaken fruit and you can see where this one gets its name. Served up, it comes with a sparkling rosé chaser (below left) that cuts through the viscosity of the berries. Try throwing the shot of rosé in after a few sips to give the cocktail a totally new character.

For something entirely different, move on to the Watermelon Daiquiri (white rum infused with basil, fresh squeezed watermelon juice, $12). For this one, Greekwood purees fresh watermelons, then strains them through fine mesh. Watermelon’s good name has been ruined by too much cheap liqueur nonsense of late. This drink goes a long way toward bringing it back.

The Red Sangria (Grand Marnier, brandy, $12) is a match in natural flavor. Here Greekwood heats a variety of herbs from the greenhouse with a bottle of Rioja to release the oils. Then he lets that steep for a week or more before straining. “It gives it a real herby, earthy feel,’’ he said. That’s something you could say of the bar’s entire menu.

Summer Winter, 1 Burlington Mall Road, Burlington. 781-221-6643. www.summerwinterrestaurant.com

Boston Globe

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Viva la Margarita!

Mixing a margarita is simple, right? Just throw some tequila, lime, and a little juice in a glass, maybe add some salt, and you’re good to go. OK, but then how come the ones we make at home never taste quite as good as those we order at restaurants? We asked some of the more popular margarita purveyors around to share their expertise and secret ingredients.

MARC KADISH

Owner of Sunset Cantina, 916 Commonwealth Ave., Allston

TEQUILA OF CHOICE: “We sell a lot of Patrón, it seems to be the tequila of choice. At the same price point there are so many other alternatives though. It’s a shame that people buy the same ones when they can try something new.’’

KEY TO A GOOD MARGARITA: “To me it’s the sour mix. We use a lemonade base with fresh squeezed limes to give it a fresh flavor. Some people grew up drinking that powdered sour mix and they consider that to be the taste that they know.’’

SECRET INGREDIENT: “We’re using the agave sweetener, made from a tequila agave plant. That’s one way to get some sweetness into it. There’s a new pink port that we’re throwing a splash of into our margaritas. Honey is a good thing that can go in there if you dissolve it right. The creativity is endless in terms of how far people want to go.’’

MO EL ZEIN

Co-owner of Masa,

350 Cambridge Road,

Woburn

TEQUILA OF CHOICE: “My favorite to use in a margarita is a reposado, which is a tequila that is aged between two months and a year. Reposados in my opinion make the best margaritas because they aren’t as peppery and spicy as silver tequilas, and not as smooth and refined as añejos. Chamucos Reposado is my favorite type of a reposado. They’re aged in former whiskey and bourbon barrels that have been shipped down to Mexico from Kentucky. They take on the characteristics of the oak and the sugary flavor of caramel and nutmeg that you find in whiskey and bourbons.’’

KEY TO A GOOD MARGARITA: “It’s really about the portions that you use of each thing. When making a good margarita, use the right orange liqueur - Triple Sec, Cointreau, Grand Marnier. Cointreau isn’t as sugary as Triple Sec, it’s a better quality liqueur to have in a drink and not as sweet and refined as Grand Marnier. Using Cointreau makes the perfect margarita. Fresh lime juice is very important, too.’’

SECRET INGREDIENT: “I do a habanero watermelon margarita. You use a good two ounces of real watermelon cubes, seedless and pureed, strain it, then use that juice, habanero-infused tequila and Cointreau and touch of lime juice and agave nectar. It’s a lot of ingredients, but you need a lot to tone down that heat level. It has a faint after effect that creeps down your throat.’’

SHERRI WHITE

Bartender at La Paloma,

195 Newport Ave., Quincy

TEQUILA OF CHOICE: “We use Sauza Gold for our house margarita. If you’re getting a straight margarita that’s the best. We use the white tequila if we’re making a flavored one like with raspberry or Blue Curaçao.’’

KEY TO A GOOD MARGARITA: “The sour mix is the key to a good tasting mix that’s not too sour or sweet. Having it mixed the proper way, that makes all the difference in the world. If the sour mix isn’t good you can have the best tequila in the world but it won’t taste right. We mix it by hand at the restaurant here as opposed to buying it by the gallon.’’

SECRET INGREDIENT: “My favorite margarita that we have is called a Pepper Rita. It’s got white tequila, Triple Sec, jalapeños and red serrano peppers. It’s got like a sweet and spicy type taste with the peppers, and the Triple Sec. The fresh jalapeños are marinated in the tequila. It bites!’’

WAYNE DUPREY

Director of Bars at Intercontinental Boston, including Sushi-Teq, 510 Atlantic Ave.

TEQUILA OF CHOICE: “My favorite is Cazadores Reposado. I like the balance of the way it’s aged in oak with the lime and syrup in a margarita. Most people don’t think oak and lime go naturally well together. It’s important to get the balance right. I’d probably use a nice middle end like a Herradura, or Don Julio Blanco if I was making margaritas for friends at home.’’

KEY TO A GOOD MARGARITA: “The key thing is the lime juice. It’s got to be fresh. It’s a painful task to squeeze a bunch of limes, but it makes a difference. A lot of places stick to Rose’s lime juice. To me it’s like a cardinal sin.’’

SECRET INGREDIENT: “Tequila has a pretty strong aroma and flavor profile. The lime juice cuts a lot of the harshness out of the tequila. Together it can be a little bitter sometimes. I like to sweeten it up with agave nectar. It tastes great and it adds more body to a margarita as opposed to just sugar or simple syrup.’’

BRIAN GAUDET

General manager and

bartender at Forest Cafe,

1682 Massachusetts Ave.,

Cambridge

TEQUILA OF CHOICE: “Milagro Reserva. It’s real smooth, almost a little smoky. That would be to drink straight. It would be a ridiculous amount of money in a margarita.’’ In that case, he uses Milagro Anejo. “It’s got a real smooth smokiness, and when you add the Grand Marnier it makes for a real tasty margarita.’’

KEY TO A GOOD MARGARITA: “The key is just to make a good, strong drink. You don’t want to overpower, but not too weak either. A good balance of alcohol to mix. Orange juice makes a big difference; it gives it a little sweetness and offsets the sour. Keep it simple.’’

SECRET INGREDIENT: “We just put out a black raspberry pomegranate margarita. It’s got muddled fresh blackberries, pomegranate liqueur, Gran Marnier, and sour mix. It’s got a lot of sweetness. We also have a purple margarita with Milagro Silver tequila, Chambord, Blue Curaçao, cranberry juice, and sour.’’

ANITA REGAN

Bar manager at Solea,

388 Moody St.,

Waltham

TEQUILA OF CHOICE: “We predominantly sell Patrón Silver, on its own or in a margarita. We do the Añejo, and Reposado too. It’s what people ask for the most, so that’s what we started carrying.’’

KEY TO A GOOD MARGARITA: “Fresh ingredients, I would say. Especially not using premix mixes; making things from scratch. Fresh lime, sugar. Cocktails to me are just like recipes in food, you use the best ingredients for food, you should use the best ingredients for cocktails.’’

SECRET INGREDIENT: “Agave nectar as the sweetener. My inspiration for margaritas is not too sweet, not too tart [and] with a little bit of attitude. Being both sweet and savory gives more character to it. For our Agave Margarita we use fresh lime and fresh oranges muddled, almost like a caipirinha or mojito.’’

Boston Globe